Cámbiame – Revisitar el new look
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El término New Look hace referencia a la silueta lanzada por Christian Dior en 1947 durante la presentación de su primera colección de Alta Costura. La silueta New Look se caracteriza por faldas amplias, cuerpos ceñidos y cinturas de avispa. Era la “mujer-flor “como él las denominaba: hombros delicados, cintura estrecha y faldas que caían en forma de corola.
Para el cambio que realicé con Natalia me inspiré en esta temática. Ella pidió un cambio porque porqué solo iba a la biblioteca y no se arreglaba. Quería algo un poco Hollywood, pero adaptado al día a día, así que recurrí al new look con una americana sin mangas y una falda simulando eso.
Aunque a priori parezca un estilo chapado a la antigua, no lo es para nada. Este estilo se ha ido rescatando del cajón de sastre a lo largo de los años. ¿La razón? Favorece virtudes y disimula defectos. Al marcar cintura y llevar falda de vuelo les queda bien tanto a las mujeres que son muy delgadas como aquellas que tienen más cadera. Un ejemplo claro de que no está pasado de moda es que Nicole Kidman apareció con un vestido de este estilo hace tan solo un par de semanas en el festival de Cannes.
MANUAL DE USO -Falda: El corte evasé es la clave que queremos conseguir (¡queremos vuelo!) por tanto el tejido debe aportar esa sensación. No por ello estoy diciendo que tengamos que ir con cancán, pero sí que el tejido debe ser liviano.
-Cinturón: Es importante marcar cintura con un cinturón. Recomiendo uno vistoso que haga juego (o no) con el look. Gran parte de la atención se va a centrar en esa parte de nuestro cuerpo, así que debe ajustarse bien a la cintura. No obstante, a veces no es necesario añadirlo porque hay vestidos o trajes que llevan una pieza que hace las funciones del cinturón.
–Zapatos: Hay que sucumbir al tacón sobre todo si no se es una persona muy alta. Este aporta altura a la vez que estiliza.
-Formas: El new look es apto tanto para abrigos como traje chaqueta y vestidos ¡todo vale! Sin embargo, recomiendo que el corte sea limpio y simple. ¿La razón? Si se lleva vuelo en la falda mejor no recargar demasiado lo demás. La clave siempre está en el equilibrio.
Es complicado encontrar una silueta que favorezca a todo el mundo (o a casi todo), pero creo que esta es una de ellas. El hecho de marcar cintura es sinónimo de feminidad y este look es una apuesta segura.
Finalmente, como conclusión de este post, me gustaría agradecer todo el apoyo recibido en las últimas semanas y, en especial, estos últimos días. ¡Mil gracias! Fotografías e imágenes Vogue.com     |
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