Cámbiame – Look ejecutiva
Como ya sabéis, me he incorporado como coach al programa Cámbiame de manera temporal y por ello hoy inauguramos sección en La Garçonnière. Para cada cambio que haga en el programa, haré una post ampliando el tema que haya tratado. Normalmente el tiempo que tenemos es bastante limitado y, como soy experto en enrollarme en la pantalla, muchas veces necesito más minutos para comentar todo. Así que a través de La Garçonnière daré más más información y trucos para aquellas personas que queráis saber más, o mi opinión. Me estrené como estilista con Aroa, quien según sus palabras, quería pasar de look «choni» a look «ejecutiva» porque recientemente ha tenido un ascenso y se dio cuenta que en un cargo así hay un protocolo en vestimenta y que ella se lo saltaba sin darse cuenta. Muchas veces hay puestos de trabajo que requieren de un formalismo o de ciertos códigos y eso no significa que tengamos que dejar de ser nosotros, pero sí es necesario adaptarnos a esas «reglas». Hoy os cuento algunas de ellas y os doy mi opinión a partir de varias piezas clave de este look junto a varias fotografías de street style reales. Y para los chicos, no os preocupéis, que en breve haré un post para vosotros. EL TRAJE SASTRE Esta una pieza clave en los guardarropas de las ejecutivas más importantes del mundo. En el caso de la falda, se recomienda que sea algo ajustada para que estilice las piernas. La medida estándar para los largos es: o 3 dedos por encima de la rodilla o 3 dedos por debajo de ésta. Esto depende obviamente de vuestra silueta, pero si sois sinceras con vosotras mismas, sabéis visualmente que os queda mejor o peor. De todas formas, ya sabéis que yo soy más fan del traje pantalón. También podemos simular un traje sastre con una americana y un pantalón (palazzo, pitillo o piel) o falda (de cualquier largo), incluso un mono a conjunto sin que este sea del mismo tejido, tal y como hice en el programa, de forma que creamos el mismo efecto, pero mucho más actual y seguramente al combinar dos piezas diferentes os divierte más. CAMISAS Y TOPS No hay mejor amigo para el traje sastre que una buena camisa. Para aportar un toque más femenino, recomiendo la seda y quizás algún estampado. También se puede usar un top lencero que da ese toque de sensualidad si se lleva una americana encima. La camisa también puede ser nuestra mejor aliada si llevamos solo un pantalón o una falda en los meses más calurosos. MANGAS Normalmente la manga de americanas y camisas debe ser larga. Sin embargo, en los últimos años estamos viendo americanas remangadas o vestidos de mangas tres cuartos. ¿La razón? Lucir brazos y manos es una señal de accesibilidad y de confianza. Esta es una técnica muy utilizada por la ex primera dama Michelle Obama. VESTIDOS Los vestidos también son una buena opción, sino que se lo digan a Anna Wintour. En verano son más cómodos y podemos permitirnos los estampados florales, por ejemplo. ¿Un consejo? Marcar cintura con un cinturón. Como veréis en las fotos que os muestro, alguien que hace esto perfectamente es Amal Clooney, quien por su trabajo siempre debe ir con un look de ejecutiva, pero es la perfecta imagen de la contemporización de este look y la mayoría de las veces utilizando vestidos. ABRIGOS Los abrigos son, también al igual que las camisas, unos de nuestros mejores aliados, pues pueden aportar ese je ne sais quoi a nuestro look de oficina. CABELLO / MAQUILLAJE El objetivo deseado es la pulcritud así que debemos apostar por colores neutros y huir de la exageración que a veces puede ser sinónimo de vulgaridad. Importante cuidar siempre la manicura y pedicura tanto como el pelo. Siempre es mejor un pelo fácil de mantener sin demasiados tintes que nos obliguen a ir religiosamente a la peluquería cada mes. COMPLEMENTOS Este look obliga el zapato de tacón porque estiliza muchísimo (preferiblemente salón) aunque soy de la opinión que con el calzado en la oficina podemos arriesgar mucho más como habéis podido ver en las fotografías que he ido poniendo en estos posts. Las joyas deben ser sobrias y el bolso es más cómodo si es grande (para llevar de todo dentro: ordenador, carpetas, etc). Tal y como dice mi amiga Nieves Álvarez, prendas sencillas como un esmoquin, una camisa o un traje sastre son sinónimo de elegancia, sensualidad y seguridad en una mujer. Como veis el truco está en tener claras las siluetas y sino siempre tener referentes como los que os mostramos aquí para que os podáis inspirar. Fotografías e imágenes vogue.com |
Muy útil! Tomo nota de la idea de combinar tejidos distintos en las piezas del traje y empiezo la búsqueda de mi top lencero para este verano 🙂 Gracias por el post
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